Seasick Memories

363


it’s been a while since i had a day off and a while since the waves are so small. so what? go dive. i woke up yesterday morning with millions of things to do and catch up on but after i looked at the ocean, i couldn’t resist. i took the 3 boys, seth, joshua, and kaulana with me to some reef diving. 2nd dive: i spear a big munu. then as i was coming up with the fish in my hand, a huge 10′ hammerhead shark came for my fish. no way i was letting it go. we pulled anchor and moved spots.
4th dive: we all jump in the water. i go outside to check out a reef. nothing there so i come back towards my boat and see the 3 kids on it talking story. i come closer and see my gun i was letting them borrow lying on the bottom of the ocean??? what??? i look up, ask what happened? seth says “ho uncle, i just seen a huge hammerhead shark!!!!” i say “wow, thanks for telling me.” i even had a dead fish tied to my waist.
it was kaulana’s first time on a boat. he was seasick the whole time. he was throwing up and everything. i felt sorry for the boy but didn’t even think of turning around. why? because if kaulana wants to become a pro surfer and surf the mentawai’s, he better get use to riding a boat. i told him that and he said “uncle, i know. i was just thinking about that.” after we got back in, he said “i want to go again.” what a strong kid.

seth said “wow, if i caught a munu this big, i’d be screaming!!!” seth, your day will come. you guys did good today! a big improvement since the last time we went diving.
my diving advise for the kids:
seth: hold on to the reef, wait for the fish to come in, and stop looking around all the time for sharks. relax and dive!
josh: don’t kick too hard going down because it will decrease your bottom time. and stop looking around all the time for sharks. relax and dive!
kaulana: you did great for your first time. next time, bring a weight belt. clear your nose every 3′ of decent. if it hurts, you waited too long. clear all the time even if it doesn’t hurt.
and keep going on boats when you get the chance. get use to it. you don’t want to be seasick in the mentawai’s when the waves are going off. sit up and breath the fresh air, if you have to throw up, throw up.
**the kids are off to california for contests, contests, and contests. i hope they kick some ass! go boys!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide