had a couple great evenings snorkeling, surfing, drinking, and laughing with friends. my friend Scott Countryman lives in the philippines and came to hawaii for a conference. so yes, i dropped everything to hang out with a guy that pushed me to my dreams 13 years ago.
been surfing this spot right before dark recently. everybody goes in and it’s only us and perfect waves. the ultimate boat trip.
Scott in on the left. been an inspiration ever since i met him. it was on his mega million dollar yacht exploring islands in the philippines. hopping from island to island and talking along the way. here is a guy my age, owing a dream boat, searching for waves, and enjoying his life. 13 years ago, i was still lost and didn’t know how my future would play out. but after meeting Scott, i realized that i want to live the exact dream he is. so yes, a total inspiration. and my buddy Carter Lee in the middle. i wanted to introduce friend to friend because i know these guys will be in my life forever. we have a great time!
surfed with Dr. Kawano-san from fukuoka this morning. he must have caught 30 waves! here in hawaii for only a couple of days just to surf. yes, a hawaiian surf trip! stoked to surf with you today, and see you tomorrow!
nice Yajimaya lunch. it was delicious.
then went back to the beach. it was beautiful.
had an awesome afternoon session with Negishi-san. she also came to hawaii for a couple of days just to surf. yes, a surfer from niseko on her nice hawaiian surf trip. see you tomorrow afternoon!
hot summer days with cool trade winds continue. and so does our south swells. good night and see you in the ocean tomorrow.
