BBQ Fever!

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gosh, been spending some long quality hours in the ocean having so much fun. surfed with Matsumoto-san this morning. she’s a yoga instructor and had the most amazing balance! i don’t think she even fell???
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great job Matsumoto-san! i’m so happy you enjoyed surfing in hawaii so much. namaste!
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Asou-san did great too. this was his first wave. beautiful sun, beautiful water, and beautiful day!
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great job Asou-san! hope you both enjoy the rest of your vacation in hawaii.
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another wonderful day for me surfing with such cool people from toyama. keep on surfing! then went to pick up Asayama-san and Shimada-san for an afternoon session. waves good all day long!
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i swear i had 3 bbq’s in the past week! eating meat, meat, and meat. last night was at Reid’s house and i ate and drank more than i wanted to. felt like a pig before i slept last night.
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how could you not eat, eat, and eat? good food, good friends, good drinks, good talk, and good laughs.
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ate some chicken noodle soup yesterday for lunch. healthy and happy.
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then had a pork bowl for lunch today. i think i better eat some vegetables soon. too much meat and i’m feeling pretty heavy now.
more perfect summer days on the way. i just checked my schedule and i don’t have a day off in a very very long time. but hey, i’m in the ocean so no complaints here.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide