been taking it day by day to get Asayama-san prepared for anything and everything. teaching him about the winds, currents, lineup, locals, boards, surf mannerism, and timing. paddling from the outside to catch a wave is easy. i like to sit right where the wave is going to break, turn around, one paddle, and take the steep drop. just like this! no, you won’t make every drop, but when you do, it is the best feeling in the world!
Shimada-san’s surfing got so good in the past few days. just pure determination! and the results are big happy smiles!
the surfers million dollar view! i just love this angle.
and i love this angle too. blue on blue.
thank you Asayama-san and Shimada-san for a wonderful afternoon yesterday. you guys did great! and want to say hello to Onosei-san and everybody at Wedge Surf Shop in ibaraki! your guys team mates are ripping it up in hawaii!
check out Dean on the drop knee barrel at bowls.
perfect placement.
and this is the greatest view for any type of surfer. the view that can’t be explained. love it!
