Longer is Better

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today was a kind of nervous day for me. when ever somebody can’t swim, i am more nervous than them. the reason is, it’s pretty much in my hands for the outcome. it’s either good, bad, or ugly. so this morning, i was extra careful when teaching Sakai-san how to surf. i made sure everything was safe and nothing could possible go wrong.
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and once she got up on her first wave, the nerves were all gone. everything went perfectly! i’m sure you will see Sakai-san surfing again! so happy!
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Kawamura-san was riding the short board in the beginning. he was having fun!
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perfect smile after a perfect wave!
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then i put Kawamura-san on a longboard. i told him, “you’re going to catch twice the amount of waves, and you are going to ride it 3x longer.” he ended up catching 4x the amount of waves, and 6x longer. super good surfer and super cool guy.
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thank you Kawamura-san and Sakai-san for the wonderful morning. i’m so happy to see your beautiful smiles in this beautiful paradise. keep on surfing!
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then went for the famous poke bowl! omg, i love it here!
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in fact, everybody loves it here. then after went to waiola shave ice to end the perfect morning. yes, another amazing day in paradise.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide