so glad to have met another hardcore surfer! surfing dawn patrol before your international flight is hardcore. and that’s what Oshima-san did this morning. i’m sure he’s sleeping really good on the airplane right now.
the waves were beautiful once again. perfect surfing and perfect rides.
and perfect style.
and perfect smile.
went under my house to look for something and found something else! my old magic board that Kaysen shaped for me. i brought it back from japan 8 years ago and forgot to take it out of my surfboard bag. haha.
so i threw on 5 fins and it worked like magic again. my lost treasure is found!
and guess what? it works better than ever.
thank you Oshima-san for the wonderful 7 perfect days of surfing! multiple levels up! see you again soon!
then went back surfing this evening for 3 hours with another cool surfer dude. we scored! omg, the waves were perfect!
