a couple of years ago, i got into an argument with another local surfer. he did something that i couldn’t forgive. we almost got into a fist fight in the water. we crossed each others paths a few times after that and had a few stare downs. neither of us would back down. i had some sleepless nights thinking about calling him and telling him to meet me at the park to settle things. no police, no friends, just two adults fighting it out for our own reasons. i haven’t seen him around for a while as he disappeared from the beach. last week, i heard he got married to one of my friends. a very sweet girl that i respect very much. so i decided it was time to end it. then yesterday out of the blue, i see him and he paddles right next to me. we stare at each other for a little, going back to our dumb old selves, then i say “hey, congratulation dude. you scored an awesome wife.” he paddled up to me, shook hands, and he apologized for the incident a couple years ago. now, it’s settled. not through fists, but through forgiveness. and when i drove home last night after a long day, i felt like i finally grew up. thank goodness because one of us, or both of us could have been going to the hospital. it can be dangerous when two hard heads collide. haha.
stoked to see Ayaka Suzuki in the water yesterday. she’s here for the bodyboard contest coming up next week at bowls. i will bet anyone that she will win it because she was ripping it hard yesterday.
hard core bodyboarder, and hard core go-naminori official blogger. when i met her a while back, i knew this girl would make it big! so much dedication and so much passion. that’s what i like about her. Go-Ayaka!
want to thank Kitahama-san for the cool message. i’m still so surprised that both your kids want to become doctors and you didn’t know about it. you must be a great role model for them because if both your kids want to become like you, you’re doing something right. and i’m sure they love surfing because of you too. congratulations and hope your kids dreams come true!
