Life's Balance: Surf, Free Dive, Yoga

251

Screen Shot 2016-08-08 at 2.42.43 PM
had the most amazing day yesterday with Mai-chan. it was raining when i got up but once we got to the ocean, the sun came out and it was as beautiful as it gets. Mai-chan’s first free dive experience and because of her strong mental mind, i knew she would go deep.
Screen Shot 2016-08-08 at 2.42.22 PM
and yes, it was Urashima Taro world yesterday. turtles everywhere. so many that i was bumping into them.
Screen Shot 2016-08-08 at 2.43.20 PM
after a few tries, Mai-chan got it right. went all the way to the bottom which is a very big accomplishment for a first time free diver. it was deep out there.
Screen Shot 2016-08-08 at 2.46.06 PM
once you can free dive, you will enter a totally different world. a world i love so much. this photo is so beautiful!
Screen Shot 2016-08-08 at 2.40.53 PM
so many fish! i could have caught a weeks worth of dinner if i wanted too.
Screen Shot 2016-08-08 at 2.38.46 PM
yesterday was one of the most weirdest days of my life. it seemed like i was part of nature or something. the turtles were looking at me differently. and it was the first time i came face to face with a puffer fish too. look at these guys trying to tell me something.
Screen Shot 2016-08-08 at 2.47.04 PM
was going to bowls but heard a lot of sewage spilt the day before. so went to look at Three’s and we ended up surfing it alone. totally scored!
Screen Shot 2016-08-08 at 2.46.30 PM
how often can you go to Three’s and catch any and every wave you want? i don’t think Mai-chan realized how lucky she was. the waves were so good!
Screen Shot 2016-08-08 at 2.48.23 PM
after a happy dive and happy surf, you have a happy girl.
Screen Shot 2016-08-08 at 2.48.59 PM
then went to the east side to practice getting barreled. this is how i learned how it feels to be in a barrel. and once i felt it, it made me chase barrels around the world.
Screen Shot 2016-08-08 at 2.49.30 PM
Mai-chan’s first barrel! must have felt so good!
IMG_2492
there is a private park up in the mountains that i totally forgot about. nobody goes there so it’s totally empty with the totally perfect view. a wild bird totally jumped on me like i was his mother. anyway, we ended up doing some totally cool yoga. this is the totally coolest pose ever! Mai-chan, this is perfection! thank you for the amazing adventurous day!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide