after our 4 hour power surf session, we were so hungry. headed to my favorite pizza place!
i just love it here because it’s custom made pizza. everything i love goes to my stomach. and it’s fun to make!
this was Takei-san’s custom pizza. very simple and healthy.
this was my pizza. very busy and messy. haha. i just pretty much loaded everything on it.
pizza and beer is a great combo!
then it was time for a challenge. this typhoon is sending some big east swells so we went to the east side. only one guy out and it was super big and wild.
i could tell Takei-san was really nervous. anybody would have been nervous because of the rocks, current, winds, and sharks.
once we made it out to the lineup, it was a challenge to get a good wave. Takei-san caught a big one and surfed it good! i was so stoked for him!
then coming in was the hard part. we had to calculate the current, wind, sets, and rocks in order to make it back safely to the little channel with jagged rocks on both sides. i was laughing the whole time because Takei-san was freaking out. haha. i’m sure this was a first for him.
this spot is called “Suicides.” yes, because it’s like suicide to even paddle out there on a day like this. and it’s right in front of a sacred Heiau (ancient hawaiian place of worship). not to mention, big sharks have been seeing roaming around there many times. and the government posted a High Surf Warning this morning for the east side. of course i didn’t tell Takei-san any of this because i didn’t want to scare him any more. haha. anyway, great job Takei-san! you are a very brave man!
