had an awesome time with these 2 cool Tokyo surfers this morning. Kanazawa-san on the left, and Nakagami-san on the right. from the start, all they wanted was to get better in surfing. my answer was “ok, let’s do it!”
Nakagami-san wanted to know how to do a proper bottom turn. i showed him on the beach and once we got into the water, he did it so fast!
and he kept on asking me “am i really bottom turning?” i said “yes you are! just don’t look down!!!” after 18 waves ridden and 20 or so bottom turns, i’m sure Nakagami-san was pretty stoked!
Kanazawa-san already has the bottom turn wired. he was ripping!
smooth and solid surfer. this wednesday is going to be great because we’re going to take it to another level!
then we had a poke bowl and shave ice after. had a great conversation. both surfers started surfing in their 30’s. both very successful in their own profession. when Nakagami-san told me “gosh, i wish i started surfing earlier,” i told him “no, i think you’re timing is perfect now. if you started surfing at a young age, you probably won’t be as successful as you are now. all you would be doing is surfing everyday. haha.” so many people tell me they started surfing too late. my reply has always been the same. “it’s never too late!” these guys met from surfing, they go on surf trips, and they have a great surfers bond. if it wasn’t for surfing, today wouldn’t have happened. so yes boys, keep on surfing and your lives will never be the same! see you on wednesday morning for another day of boot camp!
