DHG: Sunny Side Up!

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before i start my blog, i want to congratulate my little niece Kelia Moniz on her wedding engagement. she’s going to get married! i’m so freaking happy for her!
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glad to see Kimura-san and the boys still scoring good waves in the mentawai. i might have to plan a trip to indo next year with some friends.
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i love Kaimuki. went to a bar the other night with some high school friends and had a great time.
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surfed this morning with Seigo-san. waves, weather, and everything was perfect!
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there were times when we where the only ones out. unbelievable!
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Seigo-san’s been surfing better and better. super focused and confident.
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after he caught 2 waves, i told him to give me his leash. no leash prevents unnecessary wipeouts. then Seigo-san surfed the rest of the morning even more perfectly.
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great job again Seigo-san! so stoked to see you ripping!
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then went to eat the best loco moco in hawaii.
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thank you Seigo-san for the awesome morning. see you tomorrow for another day of boot camp!
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if you ever go to Diamond Head Grill, order this. loco moco with brown rice, egg sunny side up, and a medium plantation ice tea. total cost is $12.25 and you will be a very happy surfer.
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then went to check diamond head. looked super fun and not too many surfers out.
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picked up Mr. and Mrs. Osumi-san and headed to the beach. omg, we had a great time!
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surfed until evening. we paddled out and there were about 10 surfers out. when we paddled in, there were 80 surfers.
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and watched the beautiful sunset from the cliff. i surfed for over 6 hours and i’m totally burnt. i’ll be sleeping before 8pm. good night.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide