True Local Surfers

262

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had a cool surf session with Seigo-san. he wanted to surf Diamond Head for the first time so that’s where we went.
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climbing down the local trail. kind of steep!
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surfing a new spot for the first time is nerve racking. i could tell Seigo-san was nervous when we first paddled out.
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but after a few good rides, the nerves went away and he started ripping!
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Seigo-san probably caught the most waves out of every surfer in the water. he just kept catching good wave after good wave. and surfed it perfectly.
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good to see Maki-san out there too. one of the most hard core surfer in hawaii.
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it was packed! totally different crowd and different vibe than ala moana. love um both.
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awesome surfing Seigo-san! good to see you surfing better and better each day!
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the conditions at Diamond Head doesn’t get any better than this.
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good to see my long time friend Barry out today. super cool local that takes care of the spot.
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Barry and friends made Diamond Head Cliffs look like a national park. plants, shower, grass, and sitting areas. awesome work guys!
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Seigo-san with the after surf shower.
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when you see cars parked along the left and right side, you know the waves are good.
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the perfect ending with Seigo-san. thank you for the wonderful 3 days of surfing! see you in wakayama!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide