Barrel to the Rainbow

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today was a day of coaching. took Aoi to the north shore from early morning. pulled up straight to Pipeline and i asked him “are you ready?” he said “yes!”
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so stoked to see this kid charging north shore! with every session, he will excel. watching him mix it up with all the heavy locals up there was cool to watch. and watching him surf pipe was cool too.
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then he surfed Off The Wall. catching some perfect waves! watched him on a few, then he came in. i told him “next time, just pull into the barrel. if you get pounded, you will learn.”
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Aoi paddled back out and next wave, he pulled into the barrel. then the next one he made it out! omg, his first north shore barrel! so stoked for this kid! he ended up surfing three sessions and fell asleep on the car all the way home. haha.
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i was pretty happy to get my fair share of waves too. so nice to see my north shore friends. talking story, getting barreled, and having a fun day in the sun.
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you don’t have to ask me if Aoi was stoked or not. just look at his smile and you will know. this is called “pure stoke!” photos by Mia F.
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then started driving home. seen this rainbow from wahiawa and it followed us all the way back home.
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if it wasn’t for this amazing double rainbow , i probably would have fallen asleep too. thank you Mr. Rainbow for keeping me up and for the happy ending to a happy day!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide