Thanksgiving is Family

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it’s been a thanksgiving tradition for our family to get together the night before thanksgiving day. the reason is so everybody will be free, no excuses. it’s a time to be thankful for everything we have. and having each other is the most important. my beautiful niece Kelia Moniz and handsome grand-nephew Noah Jr. love you guys!
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and on thanksgiving, you never hold back. this was round 1 of 3. we had a 19 pound turkey and a 10 pound ham. i felt like a pig after!
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i took a week vacation last week and spent time searching for my next destination. and because it’s so close, all i need is 2 days off and i’ll be right here. spearing fish and grabbing lobsters. dream trip!
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the free parking at ala moana bowls is for surfers. BUT, even when there are only 2 or 3 surfers in the water, the parking is still full??? why???
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it’s because construction workers are going there early in the morning and parking all day long. the news did an investigation and caught so many guys red handed.
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and guess what? the government doesn’t do anything! why? because we are only surfers??? i bet things would be different if this was a parking lot for government employees. then they will tow cars for sure. sometimes it sucks to be a surfer.
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the last small tsunami in japan was amazingly beautiful. this wave actually looked surf able. but you’d have to be crazily stupid to try it.
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thank you Toda-san for the beautiful Mt. Fuji photo. it made my day!
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thank you Noriko-san for sending me this beautiful family photo. please tell Mama and Papa i said “hello!” miss them very much.
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and so happy to see Mama practicing her head stand everyday! omg! this is so amazing!!! and this makes me very happy! namaste!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide