Frontside/Backside Attack!

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i was lucky to have the hawaii’s two best coaches when i was growing up. Ben Aipa use to sit on the beach all day long dissecting my surfing. my other coach Tony Moniz use to take me out in the ocean and teach me by example.
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so when i coach Aoi, i try to incorporate both techniques. sometimes i’ll talk to him on the beach, but most of the times i’m in the water surfing with him.
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before he paddled out, i told him “hey, this is the most watched surf point in the whole world. everybody has their eyes on this spot all day long every day of the winter. go out and surf hard, don’t fall, and enjoy it.”
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Aoi paddled straight out and caught a nice right.
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when i seen him bottom turn, i was so stoked to see him put all his weight and power into this turn. it was the first time i saw it! if Aoi can do this on every bottom turn, his surfing will go up 10 levels.
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and when you put power into your bottom turn, the rest is easy.
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beautiful!
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Josh Moniz was out putting on a surf clinic.
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seen Aoi paddle hard into another one. this time, a left.
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another nice power bottom turn. look at his left hand in the water! that’s how!
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then coming off the bottom with speed.
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then readjusting your weight and body for the off the lip.
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then bam! the money shot! absolutely perfect off the lip!
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then the easy completion. good job Aoi! i’m super stoked to see you rising to the occasion! your level and confidence went up big time! let’s do it again!
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i’m always trying to get a wave for myself too. and when i do, it feels great!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide