Pincha Malasada

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omg, did you feel the chill this morning? it was 17c and freezing cold! my a/c blows cool air at 23c and it felt like a heater this morning.
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but so what? once you hit the ocean and catch your first wave, the chills go away. here is Mai-chan on a super good one! the funny thing is nobody would have ever thought ala moana would be good with these winds. wrong! it was great!
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then it was off to some thai food!
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Mai-chan ordered the green curry.
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i had the garlic chicken/curry combo. $7.95 and you can’t go wrong.
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then we wanted to burn off some calories so we went walking around china town. not the safest place to walk.
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i love to check out the fish markets. it gives me a good idea how valuable fresh fish is worth.
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$5.99/lbs for manini. if i wanted to, i could spear hundreds per day and be rich. but instead, i chose not to rape the ocean and not be rich.
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and i know where i can fill up coolers and coolers of these menpachi’s. but no thank you. all i need is a few a month and i’m happy.
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then it was yoga time. i taught Mai-chan how to do a headstand last time she was here, and this time i taught her how to do pincha marasana. she’s got it perfected!
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i do this every single morning before i leave my house. it gets my blood flowing and i’m ready for anything. Mai-chan calls it “pincha malasada.” haha. and after successfully teaching so many people how to do it, i think i want to become a yoga teacher someday.
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i’m also trying to do hand stands with one hand. give me a few more weeks and i’ll pull it off. but for now, not even close. haha!
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thank you Mai-chan for all the gifts! i can’t wait to eat the ramen and give Mateus his snacks. see you for tomorrow’s dawn patrol session!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide