Practice Duck Diving

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yesterday was supposed to rain, be super small on the south shore, and have the worst west winds ever. it was the totally opposite! totally sunny, biggest waves of the week, and off shore winds. there were only 3 guys out at bowls and i consider each and every one very lucky! we totally scored!
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surfing is 10% physical and 90% mental. if you can clear the mental part, surfing can be the easiest sport to learn. just ask Mai-chan.
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after our epic morning session, Mai-chan wanted to learn how to duck dive. so i grabbed a board and took her to a private little beach to practice.
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after explaining by instruction, i explained by example. duck diving is pretty unique and takes time after time to master.
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after 100 tries, Mai-chan was figuring it out. and once you figure it out, you will enter a higher level in surfing. good job girl!
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then came home and fried up some fish, and cleaned some opihi’s. the perfect healthy dinner!
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you have to be very lucky to find opihi’s like this on oahu. very lucky we are! the most amazing surfing and dinner ever!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide