the talk around town is the last big swell. people are saying the biggest in the past 3 years? the best summer so far? both, yes! i don’t even remember the last time the waves were that big. when ever the waves get that big, i get excited because i know i’m getting barreled for sure. big rights is the best right hander in town and when it gets big, it barrels. paddling out there in the big day was exciting. i was going to surf with my friends out there, and knew that the waves were perfect. on the 2 biggest days, i surfed for about 10 hours. i also took my friends from japan out and wanted to thank the boys out there for sharing waves. the vibe in hawaii is great. i was telling ayumu-san that here in hawaii, surfing is different from some local surf points in japan. we welcome anybody and everybody. no localism, no telling people to leave, and never have to ask permission to surf. i also told him that i wish the whole world was like hawaii. to me, surfing is for everybody. to me, the ocean is for everybody, and to me, if everybody could surf at their free will, this world would be a better place. some of my friends in hawaii might be asking me what i’m talking about? well, i’ve been around and not too many places in the world is like here. the aloha spirit lives on! keep sharing waves, and keep on surfing!
