i’m having a blast with Asayama-san and Nao-san. we challenge ourselves, eat a lot, and laugh too much. you just don’t know what’s going to happen because we just go with the flow.
Asayama-san was so nervous for his north shore debut. i had to keep yelling to him “BREATHE!” haha.
and once he caught a few waves, the nerves went away and the smiles shined so bright.
i remember the first time i surfed too. it was at haleiwa too. i was nervous too. BUT, i was only 6 years old. haha. but i bet Asayama-san at 67 years old was just as nervous.
Nao-san is always up the challenge. if i say go, she will go no matter what. so when i said go, she went.
it was Nao-san’s first time short boarding, and first time surfing on the north shore. i would be this stoked too!
i’m sure this memory will live in our hearts forever. can’t wait to do it again!
