Asayama-san told me it was always his dream to surf the north shore. and today couldn’t have been a more perfect day for that! we pulled up to haleiwa and the waves were perfect! and hardly anyone out! we were so lucky!
this was Asayama-san’s first wave. i was so happy to see him so relaxed. all the training we’ve been doing payed off big time.
and omg, the rainbow was so amazing! it was right in front of us as we surfed all morning
if i took Asayama-san to head high haleiwa last year, he probably wouldn’t have survived. but after all the training we’ve been doing, it was almost too easy for him. look how big this wave is! and he didn’t fall all morning long!
i couldn’t believe how empty it was. i guess everyone was doing their last minute christmas shopping?
i usually don’t catch waves when i take people surfing because i like to share. but since there were 2 waves in each set and only Asayama-san and i out, i thought “why not?” he went on the first and i went on the second.
then he rode the last one to the beach. it’s amazing how much confidence Asayama-san has now. i think free diving yesterday and catching his own fish was a total confidence booster.
happy man at happy haleiwa. as we were leaving, 30 guys paddled out. lucky us!
then we ate lunch, dessert, tea, and laughed all day long. we laughed so much that our heads were hurting after. haha. great job Asayama-san! see you tomorrow for some christmas surfing and more laughing!
