The Perfect Present!

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went surfing early yesterday morning and had a great time! the sun was golden, the water was warm, and the waves were fun. this is how i spent my christmas!
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teaching somebody to surf is pretty easy. teaching somebody to have confidence is hard. it takes time but once you have somebody believing in themselves, the sky is the limit. i will yell at you, i will laugh at you, and i will tease you. i will do anything to make you believe in yourself. right Asayama-san? haha.
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and once you believe in yourself, your whole life will be a better place. and you will also catch bigger waves!
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our old transmission needed work so my brother took it out. i asked him “how long will it take for them to fix it?” he said 2 weeks. what?? no way 2 weeks!
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so instead, we bought a christmas present for ourselves. a brand new top of the line transmission. my brother put it back in and it was ready the next day.
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one day, a motorcycle pulled up to the side of me when i was at the stoplight. he revved his motor and wanted to race me. i looked at him and laughed. back in high school, i would have raced him right there. but now, i turn away, and drive down the street with a big smile on my face. gosh, silence is so golden!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide