this morning was freaking so beautiful! the ocean and sky looked like a painting!
to help Asayama-san overcome his fear, i tried yoga, i tried scolding, i tried laughing, i tried ignoring, and i tried yelling. i even tried reverse psychology. nothing worked. in the end, it was free diving that worked to fend off the fear. after being so calm underwater, he became so calm on the water. and it shows in his surfing. today was his last day and i didn’t see once ounce of fear in this new brave man.
and when you surf with no fear, you will surf better, and you will have a lot more fun.
and you will enjoy every single ride perfectly. and once you overcome your fear in the ocean, you will overcome your fear in many other aspects in your life.
Asayama-san’s last wave of 2016. i’d say he caught over 200 waves this year in his 3 visits to hawaii.
thank you Asayama-san for the wonderful 10 days of surfing, diving, hanging out, and laughing. keep healthy, keep positive, and keep fearless in life. going to miss you and hope to see you again soon!
ever ate at Shaloha? omg, the best pita bread sandwiches i’ve ever eaten.
and the drink and soup is amazing too.
try it and i bet you’ll love it.
