i’m always very careful when i teach people how to spear fish. this is the reason why! the water was dirty when this guys friend thought he was a fish and shot him in the head. lucky he survived.
i woke up at 5am this morning, ate my breakfast, did my exercise, and headed to the yacht harbor to take care of my baby. i got down there and it was still dark.
nobody was down there of course, except for the maintenance guy. so i started polishing away. wax on, wax off. i was sweating in the cold and was in a great rhythm when the maintenance guy yelled out “hey kirby, are you on drugs???” haha. i told him, “hey, this is the only time i have to do this because i’m so busy!” he looked at me and really thought i was on drugs. haha.
it felt good being so productive from so early in the morning. i kept on waxing away and watching the sky turn color.
i was done and Mayuki looked brand new again. that makes me so happy! then i thought “i deserve a wave for all my hard work.”
so i untied the ropes and headed out to surf. i was heading to my secret spot until i passed by bowls and seen only 2 locals out and head high pumping waves! in went the anchor.
my friend sent me this photo later and said “i’m watching you!” haha you stalker! it’s weird to see myself in photos like this. actually pretty scary.
the waves were super good! i caught about 10 sets in an hour and a half so i was very satisfied. it was only 9:10am and i was ready to start my real day!
then i came home and ate a snack. bagel with cream cheese and lomilomi salmon. it was awesome!
then i picked up Ando-san and his family and went for an amazing afternoon surf. gosh, the south swell was amazing all day long! thank you Ando-san and family!
also want to thank Shuto-san for the snacks!
also want to thank Koguma-san for the hokkaido cookies!
