Letter to my little Surfer Friend

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To Shoma,
Hello Shoma, How are you doing?
Your father told me that your coming to Hawaii again?
2 years ago, I had a great time surfing with you.
Do you remember falling off my board and tumbling underwater?
You came up and I told you “Isn’t this much better than Disneyland?”
You looked shocked, then smiled and nodded your head.
Your a very brave kid.
I just want to tell you personally that I’m very sorry that I won’t be in Hawaii when you come this summer. I’m going to Tohoku for Mission 4 while you will be here.
I’ll take you surfing next time you come to Hawaii for sure!
The last time you came was 2 years ago. I bet your much bigger now.
I have this photo in my album and will have it forever.
Of course I remember you and will always!
Take care, study hard, and enjoy this beautiful summer in Hawaii!
Aloha,
Kirby

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide