Hawaii’s Heaven Onsen

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had an awesome morning session with Park-san. it was his first time surfing and this was his first wave of his life! sure looks fun!
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and when he got back on the board, he was super stoked. ready for more!
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we ended up surfing 2.5 hours and i don’t know where Park-san gets all his energy from. he wanted more and more.
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Park-san kept on saying “this is heaven.” and he kept on saying “this feels like an onsen.” after he saw the snow on the live camera at his home in Niigata this morning, i can understand exactly what he’s feeling. i felt the same way when i got back from Hokkaido last week. haha.
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and i was craving a hot Pho for lunch so it turned out perfectly! thank you Park-san and see you tomorrow morning for another day in heaven’s onsen.
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then i went back this afternoon to surf with Arai-san. more great rides coming soon!
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looked at Diamond Head this afternoon. i’m sure tomorrow will be epic as the winds turn more north. waves everywhere in town with perfect offshore winds. yeah!
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can you believe this is only a 3 hour drive away from Osaka??? nice powder Saori-san you lucky girl!
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gosh, i’m so jealous! next time i go to Osaka, i hope take a short drive and surf in the powder and eat crab again. can’t wait!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide