i was surfing yesterday for 5 hours. in those 5 hours, i seen only 4 other surfers come out. one was this Doctor i always see out there. she will paddle out on her days off no matter what kind of conditions. so i told her “wow, you surf no matter what yeah.” she said “these challenging days makes the good days so easy!” i totally agree!
Kimura-san and i had the whole ocean to ourselves in the afternoon. on any given day, i’d rather surf it like this than a clean small day with 50 other guys out. this is the essence of true surfing.
thank you Kimura-san for taking the challenge at 60 years old. you are an inspiration to all us younger surfers! keep on surfing and see you at the TSSC contest in april.
one last wave for this beautiful hawaiian trip. perfect takeoff, perfect bottom turn, and perfect ride!
there were so many waves coming in unridden so i had to get a few for myself. i don’t like wasting waves.
last, the teachers in hawaii are asking for a higher salary. i believe that if you make the teachers happy, the students will come out the winners in the end. it’s that simple.
