we pulled up at bowls parking lot this morning. i looked at the waves and it looked junk. so i looked at other spots, looked at the swell direction, looked at the clouds moving, and looked at Ando-san and said “get back in the car, today is your lucky day!”
jumped on Mayuki and headed out to a spot i knew was working today. all the right variables came together on this day so let’s just call it “The Day!”
there was only one of my other friend out! so we were giving Ando-san pretty much any wave he wanted. perfect overhead sets with the longest rights ever! we freaking scored the most epic session! look how beautiful this Ando-san’s wave is!!! it’s like indonesia! and nobody out? score!
after a few hours, it was time to eat lunch. Ando-san came back to Mayuki with the biggest smile.
we were so hungry! ate the best locomoco!
gosh, this is the only locomoco on the island that doesn’t make me feel like a pig when i’m finished eating it.
then passed by Diamond Head to check the waves. and after looking at it for 5 minutes, i knew the spot we surfed in the morning was still going to be good.
so went to cool down with Waiola Shave Ice. got a serious ice cream headache because i ate too fast.
gosh, today was like summer! 29 degrees C with cool trade winds. and absolutely perfect off shore conditions.
then jumped back on Mayuki and headed out for our second round. all smiles.
our second round was longer, better, and we surfed until our arms wouldn’t let us surf any more. Ando-san will have a hard time raising his hands to shampoo his hair tonight. haha. great job dude!
then i came home, sanded, and got bit by mosquitos, painted, and got bit my mosquitos. and cleaned up, and got bit by mosquitos. i’m so itchy again!!!
