gosh, even though the weather and winds have been crazy, the ocean has been so calm. absolutely perfect!
when we were surfing yesterday, Tokukura-san’s leash got stuck on the reef. it was the first time for him so he thought a fish was pulling his leash. haha. it’s actually pretty freaky because the leash is preventing you from going anywhere and the surge of the ocean is pulling you the opposite way. i kept on telling Tokukura-san to keep calm and relax. never fight the ocean because the ocean will always win.
eventually, the leash got untangled from the reef. this is a lucky situation.
then guess what? thirty minutes later, Tokukura-san’s leash got stuck on the reef again! this time, it was wrapped around super good and it wasn’t coming off. so i told him to keep calm and take his leash off. this is the 2nd alternative if the first one doesn’t work.
then i dove down to untangle it from the coral. imagine this happening to you for the first time when you’re surfing alone? there are surfers that actually drowned this way. if you panic, you can drown. if you keep calm, you will survive. simple. as for me, thank goodness i didn’t get poked by this sea urchin. that would have sucked.
then last night i was watching LIVE the WSL contest in australia. so stoked to see my nephew dominate his heat. he won it easily but the thing that bothered me was the commentator was calling him Seth Morrison. what??? who the heck is Seth Morrison? then he called him that again. omg! this kid just beat the 11x World Champ and 9x Pipe Master Champ Kelly Slater at pipeline and he still doesn’t know who Seth Moniz is? are you kidding? he should be fired!
my head was boiling as Seth was walking up the beach. he didn’t even get the heat winner interview. so sad to see this kid getting treated so poorly. i had to turn off my computer and take some deep breaths. i was calm, but still had a very hard time falling asleep. haha. i better take it easy. haha.
