happy surf morning with Takagaki-san and Kiyomi-san! the waves were small and the weather was bad. but guess what? that was a good thing because nobody was out! if there were big waves and good weather, there would have been 40 guys out. so Kiyomi-san kept enjoying each ride at a time. nobody around to be nervous about. it was woman and nature. good riding Kiyomi-san!
look how beautiful this wave is!! the conditions were absolutely perfect! Takagaki-san riding the smooth faces of mother nature.
i still couldn’t believe we had the entire ocean to ourselves at one time. it’s pretty unbelievable if you’re from japan because a day like this in shonan will have hundreds of surfers. but not today in hawaii.
Kiyomi-san surfing better and better on each wave. super amazing progress!
Takagaki-san was surfing good as usual. just smiling and enjoying the ride.
then 5 surfers paddled out and we paddled in. it was indeed a dream session for us!
then went to east some oxtail soup and curry. thank you Takagaki-san and Kiyomi-san for the awesome empty morning!
i was watching Seth’s heat last night online. and when he beat another Pipeline Master Julian Wilson, i couldn’t wipe that smile off my face. i am so proud of Josh and Seth representing hawaii down there in australia.
Julian Wilson is one of the most rich and famous surfers in the world. he’s won WCT contests around the world. a normal kid would be so freaking nervous but not Seth. after all those years of watching his older brothers and sister picking on him, i knew he would turn out to be the most fearless. look at Seth’s expression, i bet he’s thinking “holy crap! i just beat another one of my hero’s! now who’s next?” haha.
went to pick up Tatsuya-san and Kazumi-san for an afternoon session. and guess what? we had the whole spot to ourselves for a while! what an incredible day of surfing all alone! it feels like a freaking dream! more photos coming tomorrow!
