had an awesome time surfing with Komiyama-san this morning. super fun waves and super long rides. downloading photos now so will get to that later. but for how, loading up more from 2015.
taking kids surfing for the first time is so fun. just to see their reaction is amazing. i have to use some mental tricks to make them feel safe and secure. and when everything goes right, you will get the most precious moment in any kids life. surfing in hawaii? a dream that you can relive forever.
and taking people to swim with the wild nature. another treat for me.
and coaching kids on how to surf better and live a better life. i keep telling them that surfing isn’t everything, but education is. if you have a good education, you can surf forever.
still can’t believe i speared my first big tuna in mexico. it seemed like years ago but only happened so recently. i told myself then that i won’t do it again, but now i kind of want to get another one. haha.
Mayuki changed my life big time. if it wasn’t for her, i would be a lonely man. and i would also have lonely friends too. haha.
i want to surf until i’m 80 years old. and i want to free dive until the last breath of my life.
2015 had a lot of coral bleaching. but now in 2017, no bleaching anymore.
swimming with sharks makes me really understand that we are in their world. we are just visitors so have to respect that.
2015 surfing with my beautiful friends. more memories to come for years to come.
