Frostbite to the Bones

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till this day, i couldn’t really comprehend how people die in the snow. i thought it was impossible to freeze to death. i was wrong. i remember this day really good. really good because there were a few times i really thought i was going to pass out because i was so cold. my body never felt this cold in my life. i could feel a burning frostbite down to my bones. and being that the powder was so deep, i would fall down and totally disappear in the snow. freezing even more.
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so the faster i snowboarded down the mountain, the warmer i would get. i would totally forget about being cold for a few seconds. then when i stop, i would freeze to my bones again.
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then when the day was over, we went to eat at a restaurant. i took off my snowboard jacket and nobody could believe i only had a long sleeve tshirt on. haha. no wonder i was so cold! everybody else had 3 layers of jackets and i really didn’t think about it. why? because i’m a freaking beginner and shouldn’t be in the mountains. haha.
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but really want to thank Takahashi-san for these photos and for taking really good care of me. if it wasn’t for him, i wouldn’t have survived. no way!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide