Ala Wai Dirty Jobs

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i had such a great time surfing with Nozaki-san and Shui-kun this morning! it’s been a year so we were all looking forward to getting some good rides.

Shui-kun is the cutest kid! 10 years old and loves to surf! he caught so many good waves today and rode them super long. i was very impressed!

Nozaki-san loves to surf even more. haha. she caught so many good waves too. perfect surfing style!

Shui-kun is very shy. hardly talks but always smiling. that’s important!

Mom smiling too!

last year, Shui-kun was going straight. this year, he’s turning all over the wave. i was so cute to watch!

Mother and Son enjoying the most beautiful place in the world. this is what surfing is all about.

seen 2 nice size Omilu’s swimming right under me today. they kept coming back because they knew i didn’t have my spear. if i did, this would be sashimi for dinner. maybe next time.

some hot pho after a hot surf. can’t beat it! thank you Nozaki-san and Shui-kun for the awesome morning!

then i had an emergency repair down at the yacht club. i was telling my friend, “i would never jump into the dirty Ala Wai Canal for nobody. no girl, no guy, no friend, or nobody. but when it comes to Mayuki, i’d do anything.” so i jumped in the Ala Wai Canal for the very first time in my life. and i hope i never have to do it again. OMG, i better go take a good shower.

then went to pick up Yamaji-san in the afternoon and surfed until sunset. that totals my surf time today at 7 hours! i’m totally burnt!

leave you with this cool photo of this cool surfer kid. goodnight.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide