so happy to surf with Tanisaka-san and Chizuru-san this morning. Tanisaka-san wanted to try to longboard so i was stoked to lend him my magic one and watch him ride the waves forever!
Chizuru-san was in perfect form today! i couldn’t believe how good she got! perfect balance and perfect smiles!
i think Tanisaka-san is hooked on long boarding. compared to short boarding, you can catch the waves 5x easier, and ride it 5x longer. why not right?
Chizuru-san got the wave of the day! a big set came and i yelled “GO!” she went and made the steep drop! freaking amazing!!!
i had fun too just riding swells all morning long. gosh, i love Hawaii!
and everybody else loves Hawaii too! it’s full on summer time!
thank you guys for the wonderful time! good surfing, good food, and good shave ice! and of course, good day!
pho time!
shave ice time!
HE’S BACK!! then went to pick up Asayama-san this afternoon for a super awesome surf session. straight off the airplane in the morning and riding perfect waves in the afternoon. what a great life!
