I Love Crazy Hawaii!

273

it’s so crazy how good the waves have been! some head high barrels at Ala Moana all day! so stoked summer is here so early.

it’s so crazy how good Asayama-san is surfing! this morning he got better and better. and catching bigger and bigger waves.

and it’s so crazy that Asayama-san’s shortboard is getting shorter and shorter. last year, he couldn’t even paddle this board, but now he’s catching waves and riding it on his own.

it’s so crazy that Asayama-san is 68 years old. nobody can believe his age and his ability to shortboard.

it’s so crazy how a smile can say a thousand words. “happy” x 1000 times. surf, pho, and happiness.

it’s so crazy how Ocean’s Love is happening in Hawaii. awesome time surfing with you Koki-kun!

it’s so crazy how good Dove Wetsuits is! i ordered a few more suits in Shikoku and can’t wait to get them.

it’s so crazy how i’m eating this fish from Kitakami! thank you to the Sato-san family!

and it’s so crazy that i saw a fish swimming in the ocean yesterday evening, and now it’s nicely filleted in my refrigerator. this is the best sashimi you will ever eat in Hawaii!

and it’s so crazy that i surfed 2 long rounds today. gosh, i love crazy!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide