i’ve been getting a lot of Asayama-san fan mail, messages, and comments. each person totally inspired by this amazing man. each day, he’s getting braver and younger. everyday he’s getting happier and confident. someone asked me how he does it? i told her “Asayama-san is challenging himself. the word “Never” is no longer in his vocabulary. if he wants to do something, he will.” and if you look at this photo from yesterday, you would never believe he was surfing a 11’0 beginner longboard and only going straight in Hawaii last year.
and last year, Asayama-san’s face was full of fear. now, it’s all about happiness.
and i tell everybody, “it’s never too late to start surfing!” if you want to start a new amazing life, go grab a board and never give up! and if you can’t do it on your own, i’ll be more than happy to help you out. the more happy people, the world will be a better place.
the perfect example of inspiration for all of us. great job Asayama-san!
last time i was in Japan, i saw this cool little motorcycle. i don’t read Japanese but i think the sign read “please feel free to try me anytime.” gosh, i wish i had more time.
i pulled into a huge 10′ barrel at Pipeline. came out at the end and the wave blew me all the way to the beach. i hit my leg on my board but went home very happy. this is the biggest bruise i ever had in my life. my leg hurts so bad i can barely walk.
oh, the real story is i fell off Mayuki, hit my ass on the boat, and fell over into the water. haha. omg, it hurts so good!
