omg, the waves were super good all day long. i surfed 3 rounds from morning till pitch dark. got some barrels like this too! super satisfied, but super tired.
Asayama-san getting bigger and bigger waves. he’s not even scared anymore!
this is the first real South swell of the year. i couldn’t believe how perfect the conditions were!
smooth glassy and smooth surfing.
i don’t think Asayama-san will ever ride a longboard again. he’s totally hooked on short boarding.
on the last wave, i took him to Bowls and he caught a set going right. he was so happy after that so we called it a day.
so cool watching Reid catching all the perfect rights at Bowls. driving off the bottom and smashing the lip!
i surfed with Asayama-san in the morning. then i surfed with someone who preferred not to be mentioned on my blog this afternoon. i respect that because he’s not supposed to be in Hawaii. then i surfed with Asayama-san this evening till dark. i don’t remember the last time i surfed so much in a single day.
then ate dinner and had a great time with some friends tonight. it’s so late and i’m so sleepy. going to get up early morning and do it all again. goodnight.
last, it’s so cool what you can see in the ocean at night. pirate ship in Hawaii? cool!
