today was all about survival. Nanami-san’s back in Hawaii and she knew the waves were going to be big. i told her don’t worry, but i was a little worried because it wasn’t just big, it was huge! good thing i taught her how to throw her board and dive under. look how big this wave was, and look how small Nanami-san is!
then once we made it out, it was easy. first wave for Nanami-san on this 10 day boot camp trip.
i was tripping out when Nanami-san caught this huge set! and made it! Nanami-san, get ready for a week of boot camp fun! and sorry for yelling at you this morning. i didn’t want you to die. haha.
then went to meet Carter for an afternoon session @ secret spot. we ended up surfing super long! waves were so good so we couldn’t come in. drove home a very happy man.
then came home and ate dinner with Mateus. that made me even more happy!
