i don’t like coffee, but i sure love the looks and smell of it.
i don’t like eating ramen in Hawaii, but i sure love eating Pho in Hawaii.
another close your eyes surprise moment for Mateus.
omg, he was so happy! any young boy loves tractors and trucks!
thank you so much Uncle and Aunty Sasaki-san! i love my toys!
ok, my secret session yesterday explained. i have been watching closely this super fickle spot for the past 6 months. it only gets good on special days like yesterday. maybe only 2 days out of the 365 calendar year. you have to time it right. it takes the perfect tide, perfect wind, perfect swell direction, and perfect everything. i gambled yesterday and it payed off. i haven’t surfed it like this in 30 years and at that time, i was too scared to pull into the big barrels breaking over the razor sharp reef. but now, i take high risks because i love the high rewards. yesterday will go down in one of my top 10 surf sessions of my life in Hawaii. too bad there was only another stranger out sharing the memory with me. it’s so secret that i won’t even take out my own family or friends. haha.
