Chai Alohalife

217

i went to sleep last night and woke up in the middle of the night freezing cold! i felt like i was in Hokkaido or something? then this morning at 9am, it was still only 16 degrees??? we were all freezing cold in the water!

but a few barrels will warm anyone up! today was the first time in my life i got a grab rail barrel where it usually doesn’t barrel? it was so perfect!

and Nanami-san on day 2 was surfing much better than day 1. this was a pretty big wave but Superwoman charged it hard!

besides almost drowning, Nanami-san did great! i was so proud of her!

thank you Nanami-san for believing me today. i knew you wouldn’t drown on me. and thank you for the treats from Vail Mountain!

i love this container! perfect for my Chai Milk Tea!

i’ve been drinking this every morning. and i’ve been feeling so energetic and high from the caffeine. but come to find out, my Chai Tea is decaffeinated? haha.

Mateus slept over my house last night. while i was working, he jumped on my lap and said “unko burby, if i close my eyes, can Mateus get a surprise?” i looked at him and said “what???” then after i thought about it, i started laughing so hard. i said “sorry boy, i don’t have anything for you today.” haha. such a cutie!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide