omg, i surfed 2 rounds totaling 5 hours. super burnt!
had a wonderful time surfing with Akari-chan and Nishida-san this morning. Akari-chan stood up on her first wave as a goofy footer.
then the next wave, she was regular? omg, this girl can surf both ways! amazing!
Nishida-san paddled to the outside and caught some really big waves. this guy is totally hooked on surfing.
i forgot to do my morning head stand ay home, so i did it at my office.
went with the newlyweds to eat some poke bowls! thank you guys for the wonderful morning! so happy to see you again!
yesterday was 16 degrees, today was 31 degrees? yesterday it snowed on Mauna Kea, today i was sweating in Honolulu. what’s going on?
i don’t only teach surfing, i also teach driving. teaching a 15 year old how to drive offensively and defensively is challenging. it takes a lot of experience, and takes a lot of patience. i have my left hand on the hand brake for emergency purposes. and i had to pull it 3x already. scary!
