paddled out this morning to Bowls, caught 2 good lefts. then paddled to Rock Piles and caught 2 good rights. off the lips on the lefts, and barrels on the rights. then i came in a very happy man.
to me, safety is everything. i’ll do everything and anything possible to make sure you surf the right way. sometimes it takes a few waves to figure it out, sometimes it takes years. it all depends on the person. if you listen, this won’t happen. if you don’t listen, this will happen. scary huh?
luckily Mio-san fixed it fast this afternoon. she’s always been a great student with so much determination.
Mio-san also wants to free dive on this trip so i was training her in the surf. diving under a wave in the most relaxed way is ideal. welcome to the dark room!
and if you can come up smiling like this, you’re going to be a great free diver!
more nice rides with a smile. this girl is good!
great day of boot camp day 1 Mio-san. see you tomorrow morning for some fun over and under the water! surf and dive!
