well, the eve has come. i’m still a long way being ready for my trip tomorrow. it’s been such a busy summer so far. been working hard everyday. everybody think i’m just playing. well, it might look that way because i learned how to make my job really fun. to be able to share the ocean with people that haven’t touched it before is cool. to be able to push someone into their first wave is cool. to be able to surf together on the same wave is cool. to be able to make new friends everyday is cool. when studying in college, this job wasn’t in my wildest dreams. i pictured myself with a suit and briefcase everyday catching a train to tokyo. now, my suit is my surf trunks, and my briefcase is my surfboard. nothing can beat the life i’m living and i’m going to work extra hard everyday to keep it going. i don’t remember the last day off i had but you know what? i love it. from tomorrow, i’m going to lock myself in a hotel in tokyo for 2 days and catch up on things. i need some rest, i need some time out of the sun, and i need to get ready for mission 4. i can’t wait to board the airplane. finally 9 hours straight of freedom!! haha.
a few last things:
1. the 5 moniz crew are in bali now ripping it up with the billabong team. tony, micah, isaiah, joshua, and seth. hey boys, REPRESENT!
2. it’s unbelievable what carissa moore accomplished. i remember her saying on a tv show called “Hawaiian Moving Company” when she was 6 years old “I want to be World Champion.” she did it! amazing story. maybe our next president?
3. it’s been the best summer in hawaii since i started surfing. don’t you agree?
4. sorry for not being able to get back to everybody’s email. i limit myself to 3 hours/day responding to emails and after that, i stop. if i haven’t gotten back to you, i eventually will. gomenasai.
5. last. to my friends in tohoku. see you soon!
WE ARE ONE!
