coming from California, it must feel so good to surf without a wetsuit, surf in warm water, and ride the longest waves of your life.
had the most amazing morning with Father and Daughter. 15 year old Allison surfed a few times in California but it’s her first time surfing in Hawaii. i was so happy to be the one to teach her today. this was her very first Hawaiian wave!
and by the look of things, she seemed super happy!
it amazes me when i see the great Father and Daughter relationship. now that they both shared this moment surfing in Hawaii, the bond will only grow. it’s something surfing can do.
Gregg emailed me the other day and said “the main focus will be for Allison so i’ll just ride a few on the side.” Gregg ended up catching more waves and looked way happier. haha. i love it! that’s pure stoke surfing can bring out!
this is what you call “surfing in paradise!” great job Allison!
i try my best to teach surfing on the beach. and then i try my best to ride along the side coaching you the whole way. if you listen, you will surf perfectly like this on every single wave. if you don’t, you will surf like the guy in the back of Gregg. haha.
first time for me taking a third and fourth generation Japanese/American from California surfing! we had an awesome time and an awesome talk. thank you guys!
then ate the most biggest plate lunch in Hawaii. if you weighted it, you will agree. Gregg is a fireman in California so just by him helping others, i have the biggest respect for him.
then picked up the 2 boys for an afternoon session. Fujii-san and Maeda-san just flew in this morning from Japan and couldn’t wait to surf. beautiful waves and beautiful rides.
now i hope to be surfing in my dreams… good night.
