i’ve surfed with Fujiki-san for so many times throughout the years that i can’t even count. but yesterday was by far the best day ever! we paddled out to Bowls and nobody was out. then the swell started to hit and Fujiki-san caught so many perfect lefts!
stylish bottom turn and long rides.
add a couple off the lips and you’ve gotta be stoked!
and the waves kept on coming and coming. we totally scored!
while we were surfing, this girl came out and told me “omg, i’m so bummed. i just wiped out and lost my car key. i’m supposed to pick up my boyfriend soon and now he might get mad at me.” one of the other guys out said “no way you’ll find it.” i kind of felt sorry so started looking. i always think positive so instead of thinking “i will never find it, i was telling myself that it would be a freaking miracle if i found it.” it was pretty deep and my eyes aren’t the best. and after losing my hat this morning and couldn’t find it, i knew this would be a challenge. anyway, i sat on my board while waiting for a wave just looking underwater. seen something shine so dove down before the wave came. was super blurry but grabbed it anyway and guess what?
i found her key!!! omg! that’s a miracle! the girl was happy, she went in, but i was even happier then her. because miracles do happen!
thank you Fujiki-san for the amazing surfing and treasure hunting day! i’m so stoked to see you ride so many long beautiful waves! and thank you to my friend Tyson for my new hat!
