Major Improvement: Nao-san riding the waves and not falling anymore. this is determination! next step is to go smaller on her surfboard.
Nao-san has to be in the top 10 of “hooked on surfing.”
was kind of cold yesterday morning so this bowl of pho warmed us up.
Major Improvement: Shinohara-san’s been surfing shortboard for many years. yesterday she wanted to try long boarding for the first time. after some adjustments, she was surfing like a pro.
Shinhara-san knows a few people i know through surfing. what a small world we live in.
Major Improvement: my ear is fixed to so i can get barreled again! yeah!
Major Improvement: Reina-chan went from longboard to shortboard. and will maybe never go back. haha.
i try my best to get a good photo. but people don’t realize how dangerous it is. just yesterday alone, i almost got hit 4x in the face by big longboards. it’s pretty scary at times.
and another one. how can i prevent this from happening? either stop taking photos, which i will never do. or have everybody look forward like they supposed to!!!! haha.
