Look Forward Baby Mateus!

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since my computer just crashed, i can’t upload the photos i took today. surfed for 5 hours again. i’m too tired to keep my eyes open because tomorrow will be another long wonderful day.

the other night i was watching Mateus, we got bored of playing silly kiddy games so we were wondering what to do next? then i thought of something! i asked him “do you want to surf?” he said “yes!”

so i told him we must practice a lot at home. so he went down and started paddling. then i taught him how to stand up.

we kept on doing it until he perfected it! this kids a goofy footer? omg! look at his face. haha. he was so happy to surf at home and i can’t imagine how happy he will be when we actually surf on a wave.

i kept on telling him to look forward and he was doing it perfectly. we practiced for 30 minutes and we started sweating. haha.

i took Mateus surfing for the first time when he was only 1 year old. we must have watched this video together over a hundred times. every time he laughs so much at himself. i’m sure he wants to try again. can’t wait for my next day off to do so! stay tuned…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide