Okuda-san is really inspired by Asayama-san so he wanted to shortboard too. i could tell he was nervous paddling out because it took so long. haha. but when he caught his first wave, it was all good!
and when he pulled out, he was so happy! just like ROCKY! then he paddled back out with a big smile but something looked wrong???
OMG! he was bleeding!!! just like ROCKY! Okuda-san didn’t even know! come to find out, his board hit him and above the eye. this happened right after i told him to pull out properly to prevent accidents. OMG!
we stayed out and surfed for 2 more hours. and now he started to pull out properly. better late than never. haha.
but ROCKY was so happy! he short boarded all morning and caught so many waves! good job Okuda-san!
then we went for a nice hot pho for lunch. staying in the ocean with his cut was a good thing because the blood stopped and it looked pretty much healed. the magic ocean again.
then took Nakahodo-san surfing in the afternoon. we scored!
as for my ear, i forgot about it already. but when Nao-san sent me this photo from yesterday, i realized i still have stitches in my ear!!! OMG!
