last month, Oshima-san texted me and said that he didn’t feel that his surfing was improving. he even thought about quitting. i said “NO WAY!!!”
so he flew to Hawaii to get reborn again! and this morning, he did just that.
just a couple adjustments on the first 2 waves and he was surfing great again. i even saw him ride the best wave i’ve ever seen him surf before. i was so happy!
it’s so funny because we laugh pretty loud. have lots to talk about and lots to laugh about so that can’t be helped. haha.
thank you Oshima-san for the wonderful morning! i’m happy you’re back to the ultimate feeling of surfing again.
and thank you for this bottle of cognac. i can’t wait to sip it and feel the great buzz!
and thank you Oshima-san’s Mother for thinking about me. she knows i love somen so she brought this all the way from Japan. i love it!
every single day has been like this! wow!
