We’re home. Bummer.

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hanging out 4 days with teenage girls is pretty interesting. they things they say and do makes me laugh. back on Oahu, everybody pretty much goes their own way. but here on Molokai, we do everything together. so even when they drive me crazy, i have nowhere to run. haha.

the girls cooked steak, ramen, and burritos last night for dinner.

and it was delicious! great job girls!

i had absolutely no nap time because i was either driving or doing something. but everybody else was napping all day and all night long. haha.

i already know how much a little house like the costs, i just have to find a small piece of land to build it on. then my dream will come true!

on Oahu, some people have to dive for months or years to spear a prized fish like this. things are different here. i swam right out in front in waist deep water for 10 minutes and speared this uhu right in the eye. then i came in because that’s all we needed. and i learned that you only catch what you need on this island. nothing more.

Reid went home yesterday and sent me some photos. here is our team driving around and around. everything and everything is so beautiful here.

Renton had this beach all to himself. it’s like paradise.

the boys had to go back a day early so i dropped them off at the airport. i already knew how they were feeling because i’ve been here many times. and every time i leave, i get so bummed. hard to explain until you come here.

then Reid texted me when he got home. “We’re home. Bummer.” haha. i showed the girls the text and they were laughing. our time will come and i’m not looking forward to that…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide