it’s been 20 years since Fujimoto-san surfed last. so coming to Hawaii and surfing this time was pretty nerve racking for him. i could tell he was nervous from the paddle out. i just kept on saying “relax and keep calm.”
then once the nerves went away, he was surfing really good!
pure stoke! this is what surfing is all about.
Fujimoto-san caught a few more and rode the longest waves of his life.
very good surfing today Fujimoto-san. see you tomorrow morning and get ready for some more long happy rides!
closed the session off with some hot pho. the best in Hawaii.
i came home and read a very interesting article. if you were smart enough to buy $10,000 worth of Berkshire Hathaway shares back in 1964, guess how much it would be worth today? yes, it would be worth $208 million today!!! omg, i could have bought my house in Molokai!!! haha. Warren Buffet is a very smart man. i wish i knew that 53 year ago. oh wait, i wasn’t born yet. haha.
